Author Archives: Mary Hanlon

Fashioning an Ethical Industry Conference 2011—The One Constant in Fashion is Change

Join Fashioning and Ethical Industry (FEI) on March 23rd in Edinburgh as they bring together key industry leaders to discuss the future of fashion through responsible production, consumption and marketing. This exciting event will introduce new approaches to “equip Scotland’s fashion & textile tutors and students with ideas for engaging in this emerging area” (FEI).

THE ONE CONSTANT IN FASHION IS CHANGE

FEI CONFERENCE // AN EVENT FOR FASHION & TEXTILE TUTORS AND STUDENTS

OUT OF THE BLUE // 36 DALMENY STREET // EDINBURGH // EH6 8RG
23RD MARCH 2011 // 10.00 – 17.00

A day of presentations, workshops and discussions with contributions from:

High Street Retailer // New Look
Victoria McQuillan // Online Ethical Store – Think Boutique
Kate Fletcher // Slow Fashion Pioneer
Kate and Fi Mackay // Edinburgh-based Design Duo
Tania Pramschufer // PR Company – Handupmedia
Nuran Gulenc // Garment Worker Advocate

TO BOOK YOUR PLACE, please email: info@fashioninganethicalindustry.org with your full contact details. For group bookings contact us at the same email. Places are free for fashion & textile tutors and students and £25 for other interested parties.

(Source: FEI)

The Call of Juarez // Profit in Violence

Since 1993, more than 1,400 women have been violently murdered in Ciudad Juarez, Mexico (Maquila Solidarity Network). Thousands more remain missing. These femicides have gone unsolved since the murders have not been properly investigated by local and/or international authorities. While the found bodies of women rest buried in mass graves, the killers roam free. Ciudad Juarez is a war-zone— no one is protected from the systemic violence and corruption that plagues its citizens.

In 2010 MAC cosmetics and American design house Rodarte partnered to deliver a limited edition line of cosmetics inspired by the plight of the Juarez woman. Products in the line were given names like “Factory” and “Ghost Town” and advertisements featured a young model looking…well, dead.

Despite being well received by industry, outcry from within the fashion blogosphere resulted in the cancelation of the line. As one commentator stated in response to the collection, “in a sweep of total insouciance, for chic U.S. women, ‘Factory’ is an abstract consumable concept, a shade of mint frost, whereas for Mexican women in maquiladoras, it’s a sweaty, oppressive place where they’re frequently harassed, threatened, raped, and killed.” (Sarah Menkedick) Both MAC and Rodarte have since issued apologies, with the cosmetics company promising to donate profits from the line (once it has been renamed) to a legitimate organization working within the region. There is still no word on these details, however.

Of course, women are not the only victims in Juarez. The city is home to one of the largest drug turf wars in the world. In the last four years, more than 8,000 people have been killed (averaging 8 murders per day). Last week alone, between Thursday and Saturday, 53 people were gunned down (NPR).

Set to profit from the violence this summer through the release of their new game Call of Juarez: The Cartel is the French video game company Ubisoft, There has already been outcry over the game, with critics claiming it dehumanizes victims. No apology from Ubisoft; they claim the game is purely fictional—take a look at the trailer and see for yourself.

Despite the violence and controversy surrounding this socially devastated region, some companies have decided to (re)invest in the maquiladoras there. According to Bob Cook, president of the Regional Economic Commission in El Paso, Texas, one of the draws to manufacturing in Juarez is that the violence has seemingly not targeted industry.

The violence has not targeted industry? Are factory workers not included in this category?

On October 28th of last year four people were killed when “gunmen opened fire on a trio of buses carrying nightshift maquiladora workers to communities outside the city.”

When the mass killings of women (it is estimated that over 1/3 of these women were working in maquiladoras) first surfaced over a decade ago, industry did little to protect workers, claiming it was not their responsibility because the attacks did not take place on their property.

“Maquila owners provide little help to resolve the infrastructure and social services crisis in Juárez that they helped create. In 2001 at the height of the factories’ prosperity, their owners gave Juárez only $1.5 million in a voluntary tax, according to the New Mexico State University-based research publication Frontera Norte-Sur. At the same time, according to the Canadian organization Maquila Solidarity Network, maquila exports from the Juárez region totaled more than $10 billion.” (Amnesty International USA)

To say that industry needs to step it up when dealing with Juarez would be an understatement.

The 100th anniversary of International Women’s Day (IWD) has come and gone (March 8th). With this year’s theme, equal access to education, training and science and technology: pathway to decent work for women, we remember the women and men of Juarez.

An excerpt from the controversial corrido “Las mujeres de Juaréz” by popular Mexican band Los Tigres del Norte:

Que hay varias miles de muertas en panteones
clandestinos muchas desaparecidas que me resisto
a creer… (es el reclamo del pueblo
que lo averigüe la ley….)

English translation: There are several thousand dead women, in secret cemeteries. So many women have disappeared, it is hard to believe. These people demand that the law must investigate. (Mariana Rodriguez, “¡SOMOS MÁS AMERICANOS!”: The music of Los Tigres del Norte as Grass Roots Activism)

Emily Carr to host Allan Chochinov through TD Guest Speaker/ Designer in Residence Program

Allan Chochinov of Core77 will be in Vancouver on March 15th to present his featured talk, Almost, at Emily Carr, University of Art and Design. We’ve showcased his work and research before on SA; his manifesto, 1000 Words: A Manifesto for Sustainability in Design, challenges and empowers students to work against apathetic design.

In graphics, communication, interaction, architecture, product, service, you name it—if it doesn’t take context into account, it’s crap.” (Allan Chochinov)

While Chochinov does not specialize in fashion systems, and does not necessarily/directly address the human impact/cost within the supply chain of artifacts before they reach the consumer, focusing more on the end user(s) and designer(s), there are key takeaways for responsible fashion in his work. We’re looking forward to his talk! 

WHAT: Allan Chochinov: featured talk, Almost.

WHEN: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 – 7:00pm

WHERE: Lecture Theatre, Room 301, Emily Carr, University of Art and Design

Source: Emily Carr

Fashion Supply Chain: Special Focus // Uzbekistan + Bangladesh

As a returning supporting sponsor for ECO Fashion Week—Vancouver, we once again contributed an educational/informational card to the SWAG (gift) bags. For the September event, our card focused on the life-cycle of a regular T-shirt, taking the learner on a contextual journey through nine countries: Uzbekistan, Dubai, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Canada (Vancouver), USA (New York), Japan, and Tanzania. Information on this journey is available in [Lesson 2] Connect // Key Players. For this past event, we centered our attention on providing ‘fast facts’ for two special focus touch points: Uzbekistan and Bangladesh. If you would like information on how to deliver these educational/informational cards in your classroom or business, please contact us for templates.

[Images below depict the front, inside and back of the card, printed on recycled hemp]

Front of card:

Fashion Supply Chain: Special Focus // Uzbekistan + Bangladesh 

Inside of card:

LEARN // www.SocialAlterations.com

Back of card:

LEARN // Greenpeace targets Dove for use of Palm Oil: The true cost of real beauty

Earlier this month, I had the pleasure of stepping in to teach responsible fashion consumption to an amazing group of grade 6 and 7 students in Vancouver.

Part of the SA workshop asks students to ‘talk back’ to the industry. Generation Z, as they are called (ages 8-12), is a 2 billion $ industry. It seems that companies targeting this generation believe they have to incorporate environmental responsibility into their platforms―this target market would expect no less.*

What we discussed in class, were ways for students to harness their purchasing power to not only support environmental responsibility, but to also demand systems for social compliance that protect human rights along any/all aspects of a product’s supply chain.  

When addressing unrealistic definitions of external beauty in the workshop, we show a video clip from Dove’s real beauty campaign. Before and after showing the clip, however, we take note that Dove is a corporation, and that they are, in the end, working only toward their real responsibility, the bottom line (see Lesson 3, here, and Lesson 4, here).  Nonetheless, we watch the video clip with this in mind and focus in on images reflecting the consequence of irresponsible beauty campaigns.

The educator that brought me into the class is very involved in social issues which affect her community. Before I came in, she had already engaged her students in conversations surrounding child labour in the apparel supply chain, with the article “Your Shirt off their Backs,” from Free the Children founders, Craig and Marc Kielburger. The article doesn’t take the supply chain past the point of purchase, but that is where the SA workshop comes in handy; we follow garments through the entire supply chain past the consumer, down through its bitter end.  

With her background knowledge, she has added to the workshop by introducing us to a video campaign by Greenpeace in reaction to Dove’s use of Palm Oil in their products― a great reminder that even when the bottom-line tries to be responsible, profit alone must drive the corporate conscious of a publicly traded company. **

Stay tuned for our elementary and kindergarten workshops, going live in March. The elementary workshop will include both videos, along with notes on how to engage youth in the issues surrounding responsible advertising versus responsible business.  

*Proof of this came recently in the form of ‘environmentally friendly’ packaging for Walmart’s new make-up line, GeoGirl (click here for an interesting read on the controversy surrounding the line).

** For more on Corporate Social Responsibility, check out Lesson 3 and Lesson 4. While you’re at it, pop on over to The Corporation website to hear (or read) it from the ringleader himself: Milton Frieman. And be sure to read his infamous articleThe Social Responsibility of Business is to Increase its Profits” (September 13, 1970, The New York Times Magazine) if you haven’t already.

ATTEND // ECO Fashion Week—Vancouver Conference: Fashion Trends, Greenwashing, Case Studies, NAFTA, Toxins, Responsible Business Education, Oh My!

Social Alterations is a returning proud sponsor of ECO Fashion Week—Vancouver (EFWV). We are once again coordinating the conference portion of the event, and can’t believe that it is all less than a week away!

An amazing collection of featured speakers have come out to support EFWV because they understand the importance of re/educating the industry toward responsible systems and practices.

Many will cross industry lines to deliver their lessons, and we are thankful for their commitment to the issues they hold dear.

Seminars | ECO Fashion Week—Vancouver

February 25th, 2011 | 10:00 am – 4:00 pm

The Salt Building, Southeast False Creek in the Olympic Village

www.ecofashion-week.com

START// 9:30am

9:30-10:00am Registration

10:00-10:50am Carly Stojsic // WGSN

40 minute Presentation

10 minute Audience Q&A

11:00- 11:50am Scott McDougall // TerraChoice

40 minute Presentation

10 minute Audience Q&A

12:00-12:50pm Michael Smith // Sears Canada

40 minute presentation

10 minute audience Q&A

12:50-1:20pm Break // 30 minute break

1:20-2:10pm Linda Mitchell, Christina Klee, and Mandy Quinsey // NAFTA // Import Specialists, Department of Homeland Security (U.S)

40 minute presentation

10 minute audience Q&A

2:20-3:10pm Dr. Rick Smith // Environmental Defence Canada

40 minute presentation

10 minute audience Q&A

3:20- 4:00pm Panel on Education to Close

3 minutes: Introduction // Mary Hanlon, Social Alterations

10 minutes: 1st Panellist // Denise Taschereau, Fairware

10 minutes: 2nd Panellist // Scott McDougall, TerraChoice

10 minutes: 3rd Panellist // Rick Smith, Environmental Defence Canada

7 minutes: audience Q&A

END // 4:00pm


Retuning to the stage is Carly Stojsic, Canada’s Market Editor for WGSN. At the September event, Carly introduced ECO as Movement, not Trend. For this event, we’ve asked her to return to present a trends analysis for 2012. It’s important for responsible designers to keep up to speed with where and how the industry is moving outside of the eco movement as well. Who better to present this than Carly? Exactly.

_____________________________________________

Scott McDougall, President and Chief Executive Officer of TerraChoice, wrote the book on greenwashing…literally. He is the author of TerraChoice’s ‘Sins of Greenwashing’ studies and an industry leader in responsible marketing. Nothing slips past him, and at EFWV he is presenting ‘Green’ Marketing 101. Check out the Summary and Learning Objectives of his presentation:

Drawing on recent market research, and on TerraChoice’s experience with hundreds of companies in the “green” product space, this session will be a green marketing primer. We’ll begin with a summary of the state of the green marketplace. We’ll examine who wants “greener” products and why, including the unnecessarily narrow view that many companies take of these markets. We’ll touch on lessons from the successes and failures of others. And, we’ll consider the current attention by regulators and consumers to the challenges of “greenwashing” (including TerraChoice’s “seven sins of greenwashing”). All of this will be aimed at generating enthusiasm and knowledge for winning green product strategy.

Learning Objectives:

1) Essential market intelligence to inform green product launches

2) Tips and pitfalls in green marketing

3) Avoiding the “sins of greenwashing”

_____________________________________________

Michael Smith, Manager of Eco Business Development at Sears Canada, will explore how Sears Canada understands sustainability and how the company is working toward facilitating change internally, with suppliers and with customers. The presentation will discuss the life cycle approach which Sears uses and the importance of certification, and will present designer case studies based upon Sears private brands and leading national brands which it offers.

Learning Objectives:

1) Understand Sears approach to sustainability

2) Appreciate importance of life cycle approach to apparel and role of certification

3) Learn from case studies of Sears private and national brands

_____________________________________________

Linda Mitchell, Christina Klee and Mandy Quinsey, Import Specialists with U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) at the Department of Homeland Security (U.S.), will join us to present a seminar on NAFTA/Countries-of-origin-labeling:

Summary:

This session will be a general overview of importing textiles/wearing apparel into the U.S. U.S. Customs and Border Protection will go over country of origin marking and classification. Information will be provided on the rules of origin for NAFTA and how to determine if your articles are originating or meet the tariff shift rules. If your articles do not qualify for NAFTA, there will be information regarding Tariff Preference Level (TPL) claims.

Learning Objectives:

1) Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the U.S. and classifying textiles/wearing apparel

2) Country of origin marking of textiles/wearing apparel

3) NAFTA and TPL claims

_____________________________________________

Dr. Rick Smith is the Executive Director of Environmental Defence Canada and the co-author of “Slow Death by Rubber Duck:  How the Toxic Chemistry of Everyday Life Affects Our Health”, with Bruce Lourie. At EFWV Rick will present the “Just Beautiful” Campaign and bring industry toxins to the forefront and educated participants on best practices for responsible business.

For more information on Rick and on the groundbreaking campaigning being done over at Environmental Defence Canada, click here.

_____________________________________________

To close the conference, Social Alterations is hosting a panel on educating responsible business. Scott McDougall and Dr. Rick Smith will stick around and sit on the panel. Joining them will be none other than Vancouver’s own Denise Taschereau, CEO and Co-founder of Fairware, promotional products for your conscious. Before launching Fairware, Denise spent 7 years as the Director of Sustainability and Community for Mountain Equipment Co-op, where she was responsible for overseeing MEC’s national efforts to be a leader in social and environmental responsibility. Click here to check out more from her amazing bio.

For the panel, each panellist has been asked the following question (response prepared in advance):

Within the context of education, what is/are the biggest challenge(s) facing responsible business?

This is an intentionally broad question, and was designed to seek out intersections and gaps between responsible education in theory and responsible business in practice, with respect to the unique experience and expertise of the panellists and their organizations.

We can hardly wait to hear from these speakers, and hope that you will join us!

The EFWV conference sessions are free to attend, but space is limited!

For information on registration, contact me for details: maryhanlon@socialalterations.com

Here is the schedule:

START// 9:30am

9:30-10:00am Registration

10:00-10:50am Carly Stojsic // WGSN

40 minute Presentation

10 minute Audience Q&A

11:00- 11:50am Scott McDougall // TerraChoice

40 minute Presentation

10 minute Audience Q&A

12:00-12:50pm Michael Smith // Sears Canada

40 minute presentation

10 minute audience Q&A

12:50-1:20pm Break // 30 minute break

1:20-2:10pm Linda Mitchell, Christina Klee, and Mandy Quinsey // NAFTA // Import Specialists, Department of Homeland Security (U.S)

40 minute presentation

10 minute audience Q&A

2:20-3:10pm Dr. Rick Smith // Environmental Defence Canada

40 minute presentation

10 minute audience Q&A

3:20- 4:00pm Panel on Education to Close

3 minutes: Introduction // Mary Hanlon, Social Alterations

10 minutes: 1st Panellist // Denise Taschereau, Fairware

10 minutes: 2nd Panellist // Scott McDougall, TerraChoice

10 minutes: 3rd Panellist // Rick Smith, Environmental Defence Canada

7 minutes: audience Q&A

END // 4:00pm

Nike’s ‘Better World’ will make you want to “puke”

Adirana Herrera, of Fashioning Change, recently pointed us in the direction of Nike’s new website, Nike Better World.

The new site highlights Nike’s efforts in environmental responsibility and philanthropic work in communities around the world. The site uses some controversial language to direct visitors to specific projects they are working on. For example, “Capitalism takes a backseat” links to the Greenxchange, and “H.I.V. is S.O.L” links to Nike Product (RED).

There is no question that Nike is involved in supporting some pretty progressive, groundbreaking, and world changing programs. Sifting through these highlighted endeavours, however, one can’t help but notice an absence in mention of any that support/promote workers rights in the supply chain. While this does not mean the company is not working toward responsible sourcing, it does paint an incomplete picture of Nike’s corporate social responsibility.

Needless to say, we look forward to the day when Nike’s human rights record will make us want to puke.

READ // Sasha Duerr: The Handbook of Natural Plant Dyes

Sasha Duerr’s The Handbook of Natural Plant Dyes: Personalize Your Craft with Organic Colors from Acorns, Blackberries, Coffee, and Other Everyday Ingredients is an absolute must have for fashion and textile artists, designers, students and educators.

In an interview with Timber Press (the publisher) Duerr was asked why she wrote this book, and while her answer is powerful, it also presents an opportunity for mainstream fashion to harness its cultural foundation:

Books and information on natural dyes are diverse, and dye-producing plants and color recipes differ from region to region. As my love of natural color grew, I realized that many dye recipes have been lost to particular cultures and areas of the world. Through creative re-engagement we can begin to revive these recipes and reconnect with the long history of handmade beautiful and non-toxic color sources. (We can also be innovative and create awe inspiring fresh and contemporary designs!)” (Sasha Duerr)

Duerr is the founder of the Permacouture Institute, an education non-profit working toward “regenerative design in fashion and textiles.” If you’re not yet familiar with their work, please click here and visit their beautiful site, and here to visit the blog to read the entire interview with Timber Press.

Photo Credit: Tristan Davison

Photo Source: The Permacouture Institute

New York Fashion Week vs. the Ready Made Garment Sector in Bangladesh: whose interests are protected when ‘special’ police hit the streets for fashion?

The fashion industry is often seen as a complicated paradox. So much so that many professionals working in the field of worker rights and environmental security frequently shy away from using the word ‘fashion’ itself. In its place, they vote for ‘garment,’ ‘apparel,’ ‘textile,’ etc. While it’s natural for industry jargon to vary—different circles will have their own set of terminology—it is important to recognize that in the end we are all talking about the same thing: fashion.

Fashion, after all, designs the stage and sets the pace for the performance. For our part, if we cannot connect human and environmental security issues taking place within the industry’s supply chain to the fashion runway, we haven’t dug deep enough.

We were reminded further of this truth this week with a recent Ethical Style post on the special NYPD ‘fashion’ police slated for New York Fashion Week. According to the article, the plain clothed officers are placed amongst the crowd (positioned on either side of the runway), to keep the peace from anti-fur activist protesters.

Continuing our coverage on Bangladesh, we’ve been meaning to write a story on the government’s reported consideration of a special “industrial police,” dedicated to keeping workers in the ready made garment (RMG) sector in line with an “iron hand,” according to a newspaper in Bangladesh (Clean Clothes Campaign).

So, on either side of the supply chain, the industry flexes its muscles against unrest. But, when it comes to the systemic oppression of basic human rights, coupled with unchecked environmental degradation, whose interests are being protected?

The truth is, when it comes to security there is no real paradox—the violations may be clear as mud, but we know where there are and how they got there.

Image Source: Anna Wintour targeted by PETA via Ethical Style and Bangladeshi garment workers via Fashioning an Ethical Industry

Bangladeshi garment labour activist remains jailed on fabricated charges

Last month, we received word on the arrest of Moshrefa Mishu, president of the Garment Workers Unity Forum, in Bangladesh. Since our initial report, further details on her arrest have surfaced, and we are happy to inform you that the Asian Human Rights Commission (AHRC) has formally issued an appeal. The issues surrounding the case include: illegal arrest; arbitrary detention; fabricated charges; ill-treatment; impunity; rule of law. (AHRC) Visit the ARHC Urgent Appeal to take action.

Mishu has been arrested on three fabricated cases and, according to sources, “has been ill-treated and threatened with death or disappeared while in detention.” (AHRC)

Some months prior to her arrest, Mishu was threatened with death by crossfire, which, according to the AHRC, is “an official method of extrajudicial killing of crime suspects by the law-enforcement agencies as well as the paramilitary and armed forces” (AHRC). In these cases, individuals are arrested and then, while in detention, killed in shootouts.

This isn’t the first time we’ve urged you to support the AHRC Appeals Program, and, unfortunately, it won’t be the last. The Appeals Program is successful because it tracks patterns of recorded violations and creates a unique opportunity for action. The program is driven by narrative, as each violation is contextualized through case details.

On the flip: In the wake of last month’s factory fire, Gap Inc. has come forward to promise workers compensation, and proper factory inspection. When rule of law is absent, what is the true responsibility of business?

Click here to watch the video of Basil Fernando, Director of the Asian Human Rights Commission, outlining the importance of rule of law.