Author Archives: Mary Hanlon

MakeShift Project

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Designer Natalie Purschwitz’s MakeShift Project is an art and research experiment that attempts investigates the relationship of clothing with the development of ideology and cultural production. Purschwitz is the designer behind Hunt & Gatherer, a clothing line that focuses on natural materials and contemporary design.

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MakeShift Project Image: Day 9

The MakeShift Project challenges Purschwitz to only wear clothing items that she herself has made…for an entire year. This includes socks, shoes, underwear, coats, jackets, hats, bathing suits, accessories, etc.

MakeShift Project Image: Day 12

MakeShift Project Image: Day 12

The project began on September 1st, 2009, and, only15 days in, has already produced designs solutions that the challenge Purschwitz as both designer and user without sacrificing the integrity of the function and design of the clothing.

MakeShift Project Image: Showroom Opening

MakeShift Project Image: Showroom Opening

Be sure to follow this inspiring project. You can participate by leaving comments on the MakeShift Project blog or by visiting the MakeShift showroom located at 8 E. Cordova St., Vancouver, BC.

Source: The Conveyor Belt, MakeShift Project and Hunt & Gather

Making Futures: the crafts in the context of emerging global sustainability agendas

Making Futures

Title: Making Futures: the crafts in the context of emerging global sustainability agendas
Location: Plymouth, Devon, UK.
Link out: Click here
Description: MAKING FUTURES

The purpose of ‘Making Futures’ is to improve understanding of the ways in which the contemporary crafts are practiced in relation to significant and new emerging agendas relating to global environmental and sustainability issues.

The objectives include trying to understand whether these ‘agendas’ offer opportunities for the crafts to redefine and reconstitute themselves as less marginalised, more centrally productive forces in society, through new formulations and/or re-articulations of practices, identities, positions and markets, in ways that might engage more closely with contemporary social and cultural needs.

‘Making Futures: the crafts in the context of emerging global sustainability agendas’ aims to bring together an international cast of academics, practitioners, curators, campaigners, activists, and representatives from associated organisations and agencies, to develop and explore the conference theme. The conference seeks to incorprate a diverse range of practice-based case studies with approaches rooted in historical and cultural modelling encompassing social, technological, critical-theoretical, and economic and political perspectives. Throughout, the intention will be to advance understanding and debate of this important area where practice and aesthetics confront contemporary social and political imepratives.

The conference invites submissions from practitioners, curators, historians, theorists, campaigners, activists, and representatives of public and private agencies with an interest in the relationship between the contemporary crafts and sustainability issues.

KEY NOTE SPEAKERS

John Thackara is an acclaimed author on issues concerning art and design sustainability issues and founder and director of ‘Doors of Perception’, the internationally respected design futures & sustainability network.

To find out more about John Thackara’s work please  click here

Carl Honore is the author of ‘In Praise of Slow’, the book that helped define the global slow movement. ‘Under Pressure’, Carl’s second book explores the good, the bad and the ugly of modern childrearing. His books have been translated into more than 30 languages and landed on bestseller lists in many countries.

To find out more about Carl Honore’s work please click here

Start Date: 2009-09-17
End Date: 2009-09-18

Source: Making Futures and Puff and Flock

A closer look into Gap Inc.’s new Clean Water Program

Gap Image from Greenbiz

Gap Inc.’s Clean Water Program, established in 2004 to monitor water contamination, has now grown into a system that advertises zero waste from the factory. Inside the pocket of each pair of 1969 jeans you will find this statement:

“The water used in the process of washing & dying these jeans has been specially treated to ensure it is safe & clean when it leaves the factory.”

Here’s a closer look at how Gap Inc. breaks down its environmental footprint:

Gap Inc Supply Chain

“The first phase of our environmental footprint assessment focuses on regions and facilities where we control operations and can make changes most easily. It includes our 11 headquarters (HQ) buildings, five design studios, seven distribution center campuses, and more than 2,800 stores in our North American fleet. Scheduled to be completed in 2009, this first phase will examine energy, water usage, effluents and waste (including wastewater, solid waste and hazardous waste).

The second phase of our assessment will focus further into our supply chain, where we have less direct influence but greater opportunity for impact. We expect to begin the second phase to begin in early 2010”

Gap Inc Supply Chain

Unfortunately, the company does not appear, as of yet, to have goaled itself to take on the materials end of its supply chain. This is an oversight in responsible water-use, considering that 1kg of cotton requires 8000 litres of water. Not only does the materials end of the spectrum use a lot of water, but conventional cotton, with its heavy use of chemicals, results in dirty effluents.

On the Raw Materials end of the spectrum, low-water use cotton may be one option the company will be investigate in the future. Low-water use cotton is often rain-fed. Rain-fed cotton, however, risks the outcome of having a lower quality to it due to irregular water patterns (Fletcher). It will be interesting to see how the company tackles this phase of the lifecycle in the years ahead.

Lifecycle analysis should follow the impact of a garment at every stage: material, production, transportation, use, and disposal. One look at Gap Inc.’s supply chain and it becomes clear that the consumer is not considered in the environmental impact assessments. This is another oversight in the clean water program. Using the example of a simple T-shirt, Kate Fletcher states that consumer use

“has the highest impact and the effect of reducing the energy used in washing, drying and ironing […] dwarfs the possible effects of changing production methods.” (Fletcher)

This suggests that no matter what changes a company makes to clean-up water on the production side, heavy water use and dirty effluence on the consumer end may render such changes minimal when considered against the entire lifecycle of a garment.

One way the company could reduce both water use and contamination immediately is to start promoting responsible laundry habits, and engage consumers in the process. This could be as simple as creating a user friendly online site recommending best practices for each style of jean. This would involve simply directing customers to site for information and instructions.

In the future, why not add some responsible water care labels to each garment tag (a responsible extension off the already present ‘how to care for this garment’ instructions). For example, recommended laundry detergents, how much soap to use, and instructions on ways to avoid the dryer. (A common complaint about jeans that have been left to hang dry is that they wind up feeling stiff. Simple tip to avoid this is to air dry first, and then, if you have to, pop them in the dryer to soften them up for a few minutes before you wear them).

Of course there may be no real way of tracking consumer progress on the user end, but that’s no reason not to get behind consumer education when it comes to water consumption and the laundry machine.

Taken further, each Gap Inc. store would be able to provide consumers with the correct information on laundry detergents that are appropriate for the local water system in that particular area. Gap Inc. certainly has the resources to implement a program like this. Whether or not consumers will follow recommendations, is another story all together! Imagine the possibilities for a program like that.

Regardless of any oversights in the program, kudos to Gap Inc. not only for taking on this initiative, but for effectively implementing the goals it set out to achieve. This program will no doubt inspire competitors to think about water effluents and waste in their own supply chain.

Source: GreenBiz and Gap Inc.

Work Cited: Fletcher, Kate. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. London: Earthscan, 2008.

Digital Patterns: Downloading the Future of Design

 

This is a design concept that attempts to decrease waste on the manufacturing and transportation end of the lifecycle of a garment and eliminate mass production. In the process, SANS has encouraged a new way for consumers to relate to their clothing to develop a relationship with the garment itself. Means of production and transportation, as well as material selection, are in the hands of the consumer. The result: “extravagant” and “complex” clothing does not need to come at such a high price (social, environmental, or $$$).

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pattern_smile-womens

Source: Core77 and SANS

The Designers Accord Global Summit on Design Education & Sustainability

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NOTE: Although this event is invite only, information gathered at the summit will be compiled into a toolkit that will be made available through the Designers Accord, for free.

Title: The Designers Accord Global Summit on Design Education & Sustainability
Location: San Francisco
Link out: Click here
Description:

Overview
In San Francisco, on October 23 and 24, 2009, the Designers Accord will convene 100 individuals (an invited group of undergrad and graduate design education faculty and administrators, thought-leaders, experts, and select student ambassadors) for two days of highly participatory discussion, planning, and action around the topic of sustainability and design education.

The Summit is structured so that we address the critical topics in design education and sustainability, and create a toolkit for people to use right away. The formula:

100 educators, administrators, and thought-leaders
48 hours in San Francisco
6 inspirational – 30 minute speeches
8 breakout worksessions of highly participatory small group brainstorming
1 open exhibition of work, projects, programs
Time to talk, think, learn, problem-solve, and imagine possibilities

Goal
We will draw on the experience and knowledge of our global community to tackle the critical issue of sustainability, consider how best to prepare our educational community to make real change, and imagine what’s next in design education.

Our goal is to have a lively and rich discussion during the summit, and then publish the best practices and recommendations for integrating sustainability into design and media programs to the public.”

Start Date: 2009-10-23
End Date: 2009-10-24

 

Source: The Designers Accord

The Designers Accord launches new website

logo_DAThe Designers Accord has just launched a new website. The new site offers case studies, initiatives, events and more. Join the Designers Accord to take action and to commit yourself and your organization to responsible practices.  

“The Designers Accord is the global coalition of designers, educators, and business leaders working together to create positive environmental and social impact.

The Designers Accord started with a call-to-action dubbed the “Kyoto Treaty” for design in July 2007. Since then, almost 200,000 members of the creative community, representing each design discipline, have joined the movement.

Adopters of the Designers Accord commit to five guidelines that provide collective and individual ways to take action. Becoming a member of the Designers Accord provides access to a community of peers that shares methodologies, resources, and experiences around environmental and social issues in design.”

The Designers Accord asks that “[a]ll adopters, supporters, and endorsers follow a basic code of conduct: Do no harm; Communicate and collaborate; Keep learning, keep teaching; Instigate meaningful change; Make theory action”

 

Source: The Designers Accord, @designersaccord (twitter)

new teaching resources just in time for the fall semester

If you are thinking about incorporating responsible design into your curricula this upcoming fall semester here are a few resources to get you started.

Nathan Shedroff, author of the book, Design is the Problem:  has recently published free curricula under Creative Commons license.

This is a series of free syllabi and teaching materials to help instructors teach students key topics for the future. These courses are studio courses, meant to teach students by making and doing, instead of merely reading and regurgitating. These syllabi are ready-to-use but can easily be customized for different situations. They are primarily created for design and business programs at the graduate and undergraduate level but can be adopted for teaching to most any audience at most any level. (Shedroff, Thoughts)

Design is the Problem: A course in sustainable design 1.0

Experience Studio: Exploring the full dimensions of experience design 1.0

Market Insight Studio: Research for more meaningful offerings 1.0

The curriculum contains syllabi and presentations and even comes complete with evaluation criteria for the Final Project Presentation (coming soon). Each studio course is easily downloadable, as Shedroff has, not surprisingly, made access to the information extremely user-friendly. Shedroff has truly delivered a fantastic resource in these studio courses.

Another must have for fashion design educators is Teaching Sustainable Fashion: An Educators Handbook, so make sure to add these articles to your course syllabus. We have highlighted the importance of this resource before, but with the new fall semester approaching, it is definitely worth another look. Chapters are broken up into different categories: Design, Business, Marketing, Interactive Activities, Cross-Curricular, and Pedagogy and Institutional Approaches.

You can download the entire handbook or each chapter separately on the Fashioning an Ethical Industry website, here.

Here is a look at the article titles and authors in the chapter on design:

On teaching empathy, Sue Thomas

Slow fashion, Kate Fletcher

Designing slow fashion, Kate Fletcher

The elephant in the room: Contextualising the ethical within fashion excellence, Mo Tomaney

Collaborating with fair trade producers: Design and trends, Tony Hicks

Customized denim project with further education students studying BTEC National Diploma Art & Design (Fashion & Clothing), Maria Skoyles

Clothing care calculator: An interactive tool to evaluate environmental impact, Katie Dombek-Keith and Suzanne Loker

Style showdown , Sara B. Marcketti

Introducing the cotton supply chain and sustainability, Südwind Agentur

Ideas for design briefs, Fashioning an Ethical Industry and Abbie Price

Design Revolution

Last, but not least, we posted earlier re: Emily Pilloton’s new book, Design Revolution: 100 Products that Empower People, and are happy report that it is now available for purchase. Here is what Valerie Casey, Global Practice Head, IDEO; founder, The Designers Accord, had to say about Pilloton, and the book:

 
“Pilloton is a force of nature and Design Revolution is the perfect
storm of inspiration, optimism, and ingenuity. This book should be
on every designer’s shelf — no, in his or her hands.”

Just in time for the fall semester!

 

Source: Core77, Nathan Shedroff, FEI, and Project H

Social Alterations is now on Ning!

smallSocial_Alter

 

You can use this space to share and upload curricula ideas, lesson plans, visual aids, research and projects, or to just discuss the current happenings in the industry with respect to social issues and environmental concerns, as well as the latest trends in socially responsible design.

 

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“See” you in the Forum! Oh…and don’t forget to pick up your Social Alterations Badge!

 

Visit Social Alterations

An Ecofashion Parody for a Good Cause

Riding the ecofashion craze  wave, actress Julia Stiles and The Vacationers have created a parody that draws attention to a great cause.

Since all styles are unfortunately ‘sold out,’ they have asked potential consumers to make a donation to The Lunchbox Fund.

lunchroom2The Lunchbox Fund was founded in 2004 to address the needs of impoverished students at Meadowlands High School in Soweto, South Africa. The organization has since expanded to include two additional high schools in Soweto, and most recently Alexandra High School in Alexandra Township. The simple intervention of providing a free and healthy lunch, makes a substantial difference in the students ability to reach their potential.

Source: Ethical Style, ecorazzi, The Lunchbox Fund, Julia Stiles Styles

FIBERcast 3: Environmental Sustainability in the Apparel Industry

fiberlogo

The 3rd installment of FIBERcast went live on July 31, 2009. This episodes theme? Environmental Sustainability in the Apparel Industry. Thought I might offer some notes that stood out from the 1st half of the broadcast.

Moderator: Marsha Dickson, Professor and Chairperson of the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware

Guest Speakers: Will Phillips, Manager, Environmental Strategy, Under Armour Inc., Rick Horwitch, Vice President, Solutions Business Development and Marketing, for Bureau Veritas – Consumer Products Services, Dr. Suzanne Loker, Professor, Cornell University, Huantian Cao, Associate Professor, University of Delaware

The talk started off with Professor Huantian Cao breaking down the UDSAI Policy Guide (which mainly focuses on the environment).

Dr. Suzanne Loker defined sustainability broadly as “economic development, the environment, the impacts of people in their consumption choices, and technological advancement.” This signifies “improving, building upon and overall achieving responsible practices that are mentioned over the long term. Sustainability is at the foundation of social and environmental responsibility, yet it may not be achievable. Rather, we should strive for improvement” (Loker).

Loker cites a quote taken from Yvon Chouinard, the Founder and Chairman of Patagonia, as stated in the Preface of the book Sustainable Fashion: Why Now?

“To be sustainable means that you would take-out of a system the same amount of energy as put in, with no pollution or waste. A sustainable process is one you can do forever without exhausting resources or fouling the environment […] There has never yet been, nor is there now a sustainable business or sustainable fashion on this planet, and no one should ever pretend in setting out for a place that you’ve actually gotten there.”

Sustainability is a continuous goal, one that can never be achieved. Rather, it is something to strive towards. In this way, it needs to be larger than individual businesses.

Huantian Cao covered 3 equally important pillars of sustainability:

  • Economic
  • Environmental
  • Social

Speaking in detail on what companies can do today to get started on their environmental sustainability in terms of scope of business activities, both Loker and Rick Horwitch, Vice President, Solutions Business Development and Marketing, for Bureau Veritas – Consumer Products Services stressed their belief that every member of the supply chain has a contributing role in decreasing the environmental impact through input and matching production to consumption.

To get started immediately, Horwitch suggests companies tackle the issues through design, production, supply chain, and corporate perspective:  

Design perspective

  • AFA: Restrictive Substance List (RSL) (all globally encompassing it covers the apparel and textile and footwear industry) get rid of the bad substances in your products.
  • Packaging: reduce ratios. Look for biodegradable content, energy efficient.

Production

  • Look at energy efficiency. Horwitch recommends companies check out The Footprint Chronicles over on the Patagonia site.

Supply chain

  • Look at transportation
  • Look at social compliance. Social compliance is critical. Ethical sourcing is critical to a sustainable supply chain.

Corporate perspective

  • Be a good citizen.
  • Communicate that the issues are important to you.
  • Do large scale changes, but do not ignore the small changes, such as changing the light bulbs.

What is the business case to engage in this shift?

Horwitch maintains that while the front end may be more expensive,  “sustainability is about the triple bottom line and a for profit solution. Sustainable process is an efficient process.”

Triple bottom line? Remember those three pillars Huantian Cao mentioned:

  • Economic
  • Environmental
  • Social

For more information, you can listen in on this FIBERcast, as well as previous broadcasts, here.

Resources to walk away with:

University of Delaware’s Sustainable Apparel Initiative

Sustainable Fashion: Why Now?

Restricted Substance List (RSL)

Patagonia: The Footprint Chronicles

FIBERcast

Source: FIBERcast