Author Archives: Mary Hanlon

READ // Last Nightshift in Savar by Doug Miller

Doug Miller - Book Cover

The polls have now closed on Bangladesh’s 10th parliamentary election. The election is contested (see debates) with opposition parties having boycotted the vote as a result of the current government refusing to step down and make room for a caretaker government to temporarily manage the country for the run-up to, and during, the election — an electoral process typically followed in Bangladesh. The head of the leading opposition party, the BNP, is reported to be under unofficial house arrest, and violence over political clashes has intensified (a reported 200 people have been killed since the end of October). Reports that the political instability has hit the country’s ready-made garment sector have already emerged (see also here). How will today’s results further impact the industry? Any investigations will require some historical analysis.

You may recall the #BangladeshProject SA ran in 2010, resulting in this letter. We built the campaign because we felt strongly workers were not receiving enough media attention as they fought for an increase in their minimum wage. Since the tragedy at Rana Plaza, the plight of the Bangladeshi garment worker has received mass international coverage. We’re hoping it continues, but not just for these workers, for all garment workers world-wide.

In December, a plan to provide Rana Plaza victims and the families of victims with financial compensation was announced. The plan is chaired by the International Labour Organization (ILO), and so far the arrangement has been signed by four brands, and eight stakeholder organizations: the Bonmarché, El Corte Ingles, Loblaw, and Primark and the Ministry of Labour and Employment (Bangladesh), the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers’ Association (BGMEA), the Bangladesh Employers Federation (BEF), IndustriALL Bangladesh Council (IBC), the National Coordination Committee for Workers’ Education (NCCWE), Bangladesh Institute of Labour Studies (BILS), IndustriALL Global Union, and the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC).

You may now be wondering how it could have taken these stakeholders eight months to announce a compensation plan. For context on just how complicated the aftermath of such an industrial disaster can be, check out Doug Miller’s (2012) book Last Nightshift in Savar, which tells the story of Bangladesh’s Spectrum Sweater Factory Collapse (April, 2005). Miller gave a talk on the story and the book back in September 2012 – click on the audio below to listen, and here for the slides.

Doug Miller Audio

I have now added it to our required reading list, and suggest you put it on yours for 2014!

As for the impact of Bangladesh’s current political turmoil on the industry? We’ll have to wait and see.

Cambodian garment workers battle for wage hike

Fast Facts Cambodia

In 2013, Cambodia saw months of garment worker protests calling for an increase in the monthly minimum wage. Over the past two weeks, however, the country has seen garment worker demonstrations intensify with support from the opposition, the Cambodian National Rescue Party (CNRP). Many garment workers are reportedly backing the opposition under a promise that workers would see an increase in minimum wages. Through support from the opposition, the country has since witnessed mass street rallies – the likes of which have not been seen since 1998 – with a reported hundreds of thousands of demonstrators taking to streets of Phnom Penh in support of CNRP opposition leader Sam Rainsy. The country has not seen a regime change in nearly 30 years.

Back to the garment workers…

Striking workers are demanding their monthly minimum wage double from $80.00 to $160.00. On Dec. 24th Cambodia’s Labour Advisory Committee proposed a $95.00 minimum wage, prompting a joint strike action from at least the following six unions (despite threats of legal action from the government):

  • Coalition of Cambodian Apparel Workers’ Democratic Union (C.CAWDU)
  • Free Trade Union (FTU)
  • National Independent Federation Textile Union of Cambodia (NIFTUC)
  • Collective Union of Movement of Workers (CUMW)
  • Cambodian Alliance of Trade Unions
  • Cambodian Confederation of Unions (CCU)

Although the new $95.00 monthly wage proposed was up $15.00 from last year’s $80.00 monthly wage, it falls $65.00 short of the $160.00 monthly wage sought by workers and unions.

Despite the government announcing on Dec. 31st that it is willing to increase the proposed monthly minimum by an additional $5.00, bringing it from $80.00 to $100.00, the unions have continued the nationwide strike action.

While there had been previous reports of violence (see also here), demonstrations today (Jan. 2) saw police in riot gear, armed with rifles, use force to break up the protests. Garment worker living wage activist organization, Asia Floor Wage, has announced via Facebook the unions will not back down, jointly agreeing to continue further strike action.

Striking garment workers are now faced with a difficult decision: stay and fight in support of their unions, or get back to work. An extended strike means lost wages for these workers; however, under the current pay structure, it’s becoming increasingly difficult for them to survive. It hardly seems like much of a “choice” at all.

Sithi.org has a geographical breakdown of the Cambodian garment sector with a partial list of brands and their suppliers producing within the country. Click here for the details, and to see the methodology used to gather the data.

Some further reading on Cambodia from SA //

For a background overview on the country’s apparel sector, click here.

WATCH // Handprint, a short film to change wearer perceptions on fashion systems

 

Handprint – Behind the Scenes is a beautiful short film directed by Mary Nighy, commissioned by Livia Firth, Founder and Creative Director of the Green Carpet Challenge.

A learning tool, the film is a great way to generate in class/studio discussions surrounding the individuals working within each stage of garment supply/value chains.

“Many people’s hands touch our clothes before we wear them. If we could see or speak to those people, we might think about them and our clothes quite differently. Handprint […] imagines what it would be like if we could connect to the people who make our clothes, and encourages us to remember them.” (Mary Nighy)

 

Click here for details

Preventing Workplace Violence: Fair Wear Foundation reports preliminary project results

FWF: Preventing Workplace Violence Report - November 25, 2013

 

You might recall this post from 2011 announcing a grant had been awarded to the Fair Wear Foundation for work in India and Bangladesh, in partnership with SAVE and Cividep, in India, and the AMRF Society and Awaj Foundation, in Bangladesh.

Today, November 25th, is the International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women. To mark the occasion, the FWF has released preliminary results from the project, Preventing Workplace Violence.

From the report:

One of the most telling statistics found in the project’s baseline research regards perceptions of yelling: only 20% of managers thought there was a lot of yelling in factories; 60% of workers thought it was common. Workers also reported that the vast majority of problems are with their immediate supervisors, who can change their behaviour when senior managers are on the factory floor. There is also a perception among many managers that while women may be yelled at, or occasionally hit, the environment is still preferable to other options available to poor uneducated women – like prostitution. (pg. 10)

An interesting read; check it out here.

 

READ // Mend + Transform + Renew (re)imagination of Pre and Post Consumer Waste, by Katherine Soucie

KatherineSoucie

SA friend and colleague Katherine Soucie has recently published her research, Mend + Transform + Renew (re)imagination of Pre and Post Consumer Waste. This important body of work is broken-up into five strands: (S)ITUATE, (E)XPAND, (A)CTIVATE, (M)END, and (S)PINOFF.

Students may be particularly interested in the Glossary. Check it out, and please share within/throughout your respective networks. The work is available online, but is also available in both soft and hard cover for school libraries or personal collections, etc.

Katherine is a Visiting Lecturer in Textiles at the Welch School of Art at Georgia State University.

KatherineSoucie2

READ // Manufacturing governance: global norms and policy diffusion – the case of the Chinese apparel industry, by Nadira Lamrad

 

 

I am so thrilled to share with you that Nadira’s article “Manufacturing governance: global norms and policy diffusion – the case of the Chinese apparel industry” has been published in the Journal of Asian Public Policy, Volume 6, Issue 2, 2013.

Special Issue: Market Building in Asia: Standards Setting, Policy Diffusion, and the Globalization of Market Norms

You will likely have to access the article via your university library, and access it you must! Below you’ll find the article abstract and keywords. Please share this important research with your networks.

If you have any questions about the article, or about Nadira’s research in general, please do not hesitate to get in touch with herManufacturing Governance - Nadira Lamrad

 

ATTEND // Eco Fashion Week, Oct. 6-10: Vancouver

EFWV07 - Website Image

For the first time in 7 seasons, SA won’t be in Vancouver to support our friends at Eco Fashion Week. As a result, we’re really counting on our Vancouver readers to represent and support the event conference sessions! This season will see Mountain Equipment Co-op, Bluesign Technologies, OEKO-TEX® and Ford Motor Company speak on various topics relating to responsible fashion (session times to be confirmed).

If you missed our talk at EFWV 06, you can still watch it – all of the sessions were livestreamed.

I’ve uploaded the PowerPoint to our SlideShare account, and included the transcript below, along with a link to the sessions (click on the image)

Sorry we’ll be missing the event this time around, but we’ll be there in spirit!

EFWV06

Presentation Slide Notes:

Slide 1 // Myriam Laroche, and the Vancouver ECO Fashion Week team, thank you for inviting me to speak today. Guests in attendance, thank you for your attention. And to the online audience joining us via livestream, welcome.

Social Alterations is an online education lab that myself and Nadira Lamrad developed almost four years ago.

Slide 2 // We are a free industry recourse, offering study guides, lesson plans, and learning modules, with independent research, case studies and reports for responsible fashion education.

Side 3 // We work to create comprehensive programming in creative ways. Our SAGE module, for example, uses Google Earth to take learners on a virtual tour of an example lifecycle of a hypothetical conventional cotton t-shirt, by embedding the interactive curricula directly into the program.

Slide 4 // We’re exposed to so many negative events and imagery…

Slide 5 // Social Alterations is not innocent here… we’ve covered many stories showing such imagery, such as factory fires in South East Asia, or forced child labour in cotton production, for example.

Slide 6 // Do not let the issues overwhelm you to the point that you are paralyzed and unable to take action.

Slide 7 // It becomes easy to lose sight of what’s important and the positive steps being taken. This year, we want to highlight positive action that we can take to move beyond that paralyzing negativity.

Slide 8 // There are a lot of exciting campaigning groups that you can join to showcase individual actions. There are countless petitions for you to sign against a whole host of issues: child labour, animal cruelty, clean water, the list goes on. Or you can take personal actions that demonstrate your values to your own network and community.

Slide 9 // Last year, Nadira and I took Labour Behind the Label’s 6 Items Challenge.

Slide 10 // We had to wear the same 6 items of clothing for 4 weeks to raise awareness on the importance of decent work for garment workers. People still approach us to talk about this challenge. It helped us bring the conversation home.

Slide 11 // These individual actions count within the movement, they play an important role, but we need to expand the circle and create that critical mass. Unfortunately, responsible fashion is still a niche industry within the business.

There is a lot of interesting work being done within this niche market. Like the work that Wes Baker and colleagues are doing at debrand, and the Canadian Textile Recovery Effort. The work that ecofashion week is doing, along with other groups, like member based Fashion Takes Action, that are working to make responsible fashion consumption become the norm in Canada. And of course the work that all of you are doing every day. But to achieve systemic change, we need to organize.

Slide 12 // Let’s start now. We’ve got a pop-up photo booth here today, where we are challenging you to share what you stand for and articulate your values clearly. We’ll compile the images and share them online so that you can see the diversity of values that fit under the sustainability umbrella, and learn what matters most to you, Canadian sustainable fashion leaders….But then what?

Slide 13 // More and more we are seeing global industry players come together to formalize sustainability networks. These networks can be global, like the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, for example. Or localized, like the Hong Kong based Sustainable Fashion Business Consortium (SFBC).

As I have mentioned, we already have groups working tirelessly on various pieces of the sustainability puzzle – waste recovery, responsible consumption practices, responsible education – we need to formalize a network where we come together to create and manage our own best practices to achieve the systemic change we looking for..

We need viable alternatives to the system we have in place right now. And we can’t wait for the government to take up these issues. We have to be active as a community to make sure that responsible fashion has a seat at the table, when our government finally addresses sustainable systems in Canada.

In the end, the whole point of coming together for events like this, industry conferences or academic lectures….is to learn and share ideas on how to create that systemic change, but it’s not going to happen if we don’t carry the conversation outside of these meetings to start building a roadmap for that systemic change, to transform the industry from the inside out. Let’s be clear that by industry I mean the entire fashion industry.

These are important values in Canada – Human Rights, labor rights, sustainable communities, environmental stewardship, cultural diversity – all issues that fit under the sustainability umbrella. It’s time that Canada leads the way.

Slide 14 // There is power in numbers, so let’s make it happen.

While you’re at the popup photobooth, talk to us if you’re interested in being involved in the first meeting to discuss what a “Canadian Responsible Fashion Consortium” would look like. We promise to facilitate that first meeting and we can move forward from there.

Resources // Fashion Signals, and the Hoodie

Neighbourhoodies

In the wake of this week’s verdict out of Florida on the case of Trayvon Martin, I have (as I am sure many of you have as well) been thinking a lot about fashion and apparel signals, both intentional and unintentional. Learned signals can transform perceptions, but they vary with context.

On the subject of fashion signals, I have in the past turned to work such as Wolfgang Pesendorfer’s  “Response to ‘Fashion Cycles in Economics’” and Judith Donath’s  “Note on Fashion” or “Signals, Truth & Design”.

With respect to the case of Trayvon Martin, Threadbared have published a piece titled “The Hoodie as a Sign, Screen, Expectation, and Force,” which includes an excerpt from in-progress research. I’ve embedded a video below where Mimi Thi Nguyen, Threadbared Co-Founder and Associate Professor of Gender and Women’s Studies and Asian American Studies at the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign, speaks briefly at the 7:42 mark on her research, but of course the whole video is interesting and recommended.

Further, a 2010 research collaboration between Otto von Busch, the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, London College of Fashion and Konstnarsnamnden produced “Neighbourhoodies: courageous community, colours, blazing bling and defiant delight.” More information on this project is available here.

Really looking forward to Mimi Thi Nguyen’s reasearch on this.

Image Source: CC License, Neighbourhoodies 

Call for Papers // Ixel Moda, July 15, Colombia

4tocongreso

 

If you can, jump on this call for papers – proposals are due tomorrow, July 15th, for Ixel Moda’s fashion congress to be held in Cartagena de Indias, Colombia – August 21-23, 2013.

Proposals will be accepted in English, Spanish and Portuguese for 20 minute presentations, as well as for participation in three 90-minute, interdisciplinary roundtable discussions:

Themes for the roundtables:

  • What are the challenges to the future of fashion studies? (the format of design schools, collaborations among professors, etc.)
  • What, how, and with what criteria should we conduct research? (methodologies, grants and funding, professional training, public scholarship, etc.)
  • What and how should we teach fashion studies? (teaching and learning styles, career tracks, curricular development, methodologies in curricular design, etc.)

(Source: Ixel Moda, Call for Papers)

Thank you to Dr. Regina Root, Associate Professor of Hispanic Studies and Core Faculty of Environmental Science and Policy and Sharpe Community Scholars at The College of William and Mary, for sending the information.

Click on the English or Spanish call for papers below to download full details.

 

Ixel Moda 2013 Call for Papers Image to Doc

Ixel Moda 2013 - Convocatoria de ponencias Image to Doc

 

READ // Beyond the Boycott, Gay W. Seidman

 

     

The #Buy Stage in our SAGE module tackles this issue. Above (left) is a screenshot from the module. We encourage any individual, buyer or company serious about engaging in any boycott to research and measure associated risks involved on the ground for workers. 

Beyond the Boycott, by Gay W. Seidman, is just one suggested reading that captures and frames the complexity of this issue.