Category Archives: Consumer Education

Thank you teachers!

Over at the always great addicteddotcom, Chelsea, a 16 year old from British Columbia (and clearly a fashionista in the making), has posted about a school assignment:

“As part of my history class we’ve been looking into the impact that we as consumers have on our society, our economy, and our environment. Part of the assignment includes public awareness, and I figured that my blog would be the perfect place to share this message.”

This assignment has opened Chelsea’s eyes to ethical business practices and what she refers to as her ‘Style Footprint’ (love it!  I’m adopting that term!).

Chelsea wisely concludes:

“I think that, in the long run, what I have learned during this research project will stick with me for a very, very long time. As I continue to grow as both a consumer and an individual, I know that I will be able to make smarter decisions regarding where I shop and which companies I support. Of course, with knowledge comes the responsibility of sharing it with others. I will be sure to keep my friends, family, peers and coworkers informed and conscious about their decisions and mine. While we may not realize it, every piece of clothing we buy has an impact on not only society, but also the environment and our economy – both locally and globally. While my love of fashion continues to grow, I am thankful that in the future I will be able to make educated choices and help others to do the same.

Though it may not cross my mind each time I purchase, the environmental impact of my clothing – thought not immediately noticeable to me – is significant. From the harvesting and processing of various materials to the run-off of hazardous chemicals from garment factories, our poor Earth is the victim of much torture. Of course, anything I buy has to be transported at some point during it’s life and this also has big consequences. Every truckload of garments is another car on the road and thus more carbon dioxide and exhaust into the atmosphere. And with the price of gas higher than ever the cost of my clothing also is raised.

For most people, clothing is simply not their top priority. And besides, when you’ve got expenses like education, gas, groceries and a mortgage, who can really afford quality clothing these days? This brings me back to me personal mantra, “quality over quantity.” Many people might not realize this, but in the long run investing in a few quality pieces is much more ethical than buying a large amount of cheaper, poor-quality clothing. Unfortunately, for many of us clothing is just another expense rather than a form of art and communication, and with inexpensive products in higher demand than ever we have to find a way to fulfill these needs withour violating human rights and throwing away morals.”

Photo from Chelsea's blog post.

If a 16 year old can get it, pretty sure the rest of us can as well!  Chelsea has a great attitude when it comes to the impact of her consumer choices.  I have emailed a thank you note to Chelsea’s teacher for helping to instill these values into BC students.  And yes, I did use the word values, because at the end of the day, that is what ethical business, CSR and sustainability is about.  It is always great to see something like this!  Thank you teachers!

WATCH//Beyond Green

Presenting at Beyond Green this past November at Amsterdam Fashion Institute, Kate Fletcher, author of Sustainable Textiles: Design Journeys (2008), spoke on the topic of “Fashion and Sustainability,” Adri­aan Beuk­ers, a full-time Pro­fes­sor on Com­pos­ite Ma­te­ri­als & Struc­tures at the Fac­ul­ty of Aerospace Engi­neer­ing at Delft Uni­ver­si­ty of Tech­nol­o­gy and a part-time pro­fes­sor for Engi­neer­ing with Com­pos­ites at the Ma­te­ri­als De­part­ment of the Leu­ven Uni­ver­si­ty, as well as co-au­thor of the books Light­ness (1998) and Fly­ing Light­ness (2005) spoke on “Light Weight,” Fashion Designer Mark Liu on “Zero Waste,” and Carolyn Strauss of slowLab presented “Slow-Design-Slow Fashion.”  

Beyond Green has made some of the presentations available for viewing online. Check them out!

Consumer Education

Curb Your Consumption’s Katie Hart, recently asked my opinion on the three most important things consumers need to know, and the difference it would make to the fashion industry if consumers were more educated and conscious about the clothes they buy.

Here are my answers:

What do you think are the 3 most important things consumers need to know?

Consumers need to know and understand their role in, and association with, the social and environmental problems that occur in the lifecycle of a product. In this way, consumers need to take on part of the responsibility for the social and environmental impacts associated with the products they purchase. I don’t see anyway around this. Furthermore, it is crucial that consumers take on this responsibility in terms of their impact in the user end stage of the lifecycle (in laundering habits, for example).  Having said that, it’s equally important for consumers to stay away from feelings of guilt over their purchasing and behavioural decisions, and instead move forward towards feelings of empowerment. How does a consumer gain control, however, when the “best” responsible product on the market only truly represents “the best of the worst”?

In the context of choice, consumers might feel forced to choose between people or planet: People: [social (ex. human rights), cultural (ex. artistic traditions and language), political (ex. corruption), economical (ex. micro-finance), etc.] and Planet: [environment (genetic modification, chemicals, petroleum dependant materials, carbon footprint, environmental impact, biodegradability, etc.), animals (cruelty free, vegan, etc.)]  Consumers are beginning to feel like they can’t have it all—that when they make one good decision, like supporting a cruelty free product, in the context of animal rights, they have endorsed the use of a completely toxic chemical, that hurts both people and planet (take PVC, for example). Consumers need to know the truth, and the truth is that they can have both— it is possible. People are a part of this planet. They cannot be separated, and should not be separated at any stage in any products phase of life. ‘Cradle to Cradle’ design theory embraces this relationship, with respect for “all the children, of all species, for all time” (McDonough and Braungart, 14).

Both consumers and designers need to understand that, when dealing with a corporation, profit will always come before people and planet, so long as the market designer allows. SA supports the theory that designers have to be good enough to create profit without compromising people or planet. Again, it is possible.

Both consumers and designers need to not only understand  the crucial role they play in determining the impact within the lifecycle of a product, but also understand that they don’t necessarily have access to the information needed to make properly informed decisions on the actual social and environmental consequences of that product.

Both consumers and designers need to know that they have a choice. The choice for the consumer is to consume less and demand better. The choice for the designer is to learn more and do better. In doing so, they will each have taken on part of the responsibility for the social and environmental impacts associated with these products and taken responsibility for the social and environmental impacts associated with the products they purchase in terms of their impact on the user end of the lifecycle.

What difference will it make to the fashion industry if consumers are more educated and conscious about the clothes they buy?

Consumers play a crucial role in transforming the fashion industry; without them on board and engaged in the process of transformation, responsible products will ultimately fail. The consumer is the user, after all. If they are not happy, they will look for something else—something better. When consumers become more educated and conscious about the clothes they buy, they become empowered and seek out products with more confidence. SA believes that designers have a responsibility to be more educated and conscious, a responsibility to design something else—something better. Once educated on the issues, consumers can help facilitate change through their purchasing power as the end user.

The customer is King. The customer is the one who sets the rules. The customer is the one who can have an impact on any company.” (Designer Peter Ingwersen, Noir)

To learn more about Noir and what Ingwersen calls “social ethics” click here, and watch the short Documentary for Illuminati II: From the Heart of Africa.

Image Credit: Noir Illuminati II via Inspire Me Please

Clearing the Hurdles

Clearing the Hurdles challenges sportswear companies Nike, adidas, Pentland, Puma, Lotto, New Balance, Asics and Mizuno on the working conditions within their supply chain, and offers a snapshot of the state of play for these companies, identifying four key “hurdles” facing workers within the sportswear industry, and recommending solutions for how to overcome them:

  1. Develop a positive climate for freedom of association and collective bargaining;
  2. Eliminate the use of precarious employment in sportswear supply chains;
  3. Lessen both the frequency and negative impacts of factory closures; and
  4. Take steps to improve worker incomes, with the goal of reaching a living wage for all workers.

You can view all company responses, here, as well as the Play Fair letter.

This image  is a mere screen shot of the (very interactive) Response Chart and Response Key. Click on the image to be taken to the Chart of Responses.

The Play Fair campaign is made up of  the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC), the International Trade Union Confederation (ITUC), and the International Textile, Garment and Leather Worker’s Federation (ITGLWF), in partnership with Maquila Solidarity Network, and other organizations worldwide.

National Design Triennial: Why Design Now?

In 2009, Cynthia E. Smith, Curator of Socially Responsible Design at the Cooper-Hewitt hosted a discussion on responsible design, with Emily Pilloton, author of Design Revolution and Allan Chochinov, founder of Core77. The discussion was moderated by Susan Szenasy, Editor in Chief of Metropolis Magazine. Take a look!

If you find yourself in New York sometime between May 14, 2010–January 11, 2011, be sure to check out “Why Design Now” at the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum.


“Inaugurated in 2000, the Triennial program seeks out and presents the most innovative designs at the center of contemporary culture. In this fourth exhibition in the series, the National Design Triennial will explore the work of designers addressing human and environmental problems across many fields of the design practice, from architecture and products to fashion, graphics, new media, and landscapes. Cooper-Hewitt curators Ellen Lupton, Cara McCarty, Matilda McQuaid, and Cynthia Smith will present the experimental projects and emerging ideas for the period between 2006 and 2009.” (Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum)

Title: National Design Triennial: Why Design Now?
Location: New York
Link out: Click here
Description: On view May 14, 2010–January 11, 2011

Fast Forward: Fashioning an Ethical Industry International Conference

Fashioning an Ethical Industry Conference_Fast Forward

Title: Fast Forward: Fashioning an Ethical Industry International Conference
Location: London
Link out: Click here

“In a time when we are increasingly concerned with the impact of the fashion industry on people and the planet students need to be equipped to design the way we make and consume fashion differently.

This two day international conference will bring together educators, industry experts, academics and selected students to explore how fashion can be taught to inspire responsibility for the rights of workers making our clothes.” (FEI)

SPEAKERS confirmed include:
Otto Von Busch – Haute-Couture Heretic
Alex Mcintosh – Centre for Sustainable Fashion
Nieves Ruiz Ramos – Bibico
Sophie Koers – Fair Wear Foundation
Academics and students will present papers peer reviewed by a panel
chaired by Doug Miller Professor in Ethical
Fashion at Northumbria University

SPECIAL EXHIBITION
Local Wisdom by Kate Fletcher, Reader in Sustainable Fashion at London
College of Fashion

This event is by invitation only. Invites have now been sent out by
post. If you have received at invite please RSVP by 13th January. If you have not received an invitation but would like to join us at this event please register your interest online.
Start Date: 2010-03-02
End Date: 2010-03-03

Pop Up Shop ‘Trash Vortex,’ hosted by PARTIMI

Trash Vortex comes from the desire to raise awareness about the impact our waste habits have on our oceans and also the planet as a whole.” (Eleanor Dorrien-Smith, Designer and PARTIMI Creator)  

Eleanor Dorrien-Smith, designer, PARTIMI Creator, and recent prize winner at the Fashioning the Future Awards, is about to launch an Ethical Pop Up Shop in Camden.

The decor for the Pop Up Shop is inspired by the Pacific Trash Vortex and the store will be stocking a range of ethical fashion and accessories designers including Worn Again, Komodo, Kuyuchi, Partimi and Ryan Noon. Here are the details!

LAUNCH PARTY: Friday Dec. 18th 7-10pm

SHORT FILM SHOWCASE: Saturday Dec. 19th 7:30-10pm
HAND KRAFTED FILMS presents a range of short films and animations by professional and up-and-coming filmmakers.

Opening Times:
10am – 10pm Friday 18 and Saturday 19 December
10am – 7pm Sunday 20 – Wednesday 23 December
11am – 3pm Thursday 24 December

Click here, for more information.
partimi-pop-up-poster

Start Date: 2009/12/18
End Date: 2009/12/24

Title: Pop Up Shop ‘Trash Vortex,’ hosted by PARTIMI
Location: Camden
Link out: Click here

Community News

Shifu, via Sri Threads

If a product is not considered, they call it an inconsiderate design (Lorrie Vogel, on Nike designers creating their own vocabulary, Opportunity Green)

A roundup of some of the stories, headlines, and updates you may be interested in from in and around the community of socially responsible fashion design. This week’s roundup has a ton of videos—there is a lot going on in our community!

Core77

Next: “user centered ecosystems designs”

New production method: Enslaved spiders produce huge tapestry

 

Ecouterre

Does Greenwashing Exist in the Fashion Industry?

Ecotextile News

Eco-Textile Labelling Guide 2010

Ethical Style

‘18 Degrees of Inspiration’: 6 Degrees of Cool


More videos like this on www.t5m.com

My question is—will apparel brands and retailers demand new designers, merchandisers, and others who have committed to sustainability? Or will they continue hiring only those prepared to make financially cut-throat decisions for the sake of profits and margins? (Marsha Dickson, Discussion Forum: Just Style.com)

CSR Questions Arise About Project RED

Joel Makower: Two Steps Forward

Copenhagen Gets Down to Business

Just-Style.com

Discussion Forum, INSIGHT: Design education is key to sustainable fashion

MakeShift

Happy 100 Days to the MakeShift Project! SA had the chance to interview designer Natalie Purschwitz—click here to listen to this podcast, and others.

The Story of Stuff

Remembering Bhopal

The Story of Cap & Trade: Why you can’t solve a problem with the thinking that created it

The Uniform Project

Holiday Drive, double your donation: “eBay will match every dollar you donate during this holiday season up to $15k. If you’ve been waiting to donate, there is no better time than now.” (The Uniform Project) Click here to read more about the project.

The Uptake

Hopenhagen? No, thanks: Naomi Klein on COP15

Treehugger

Versace, Valentino, and Prada Packaging Supplier Cuts Ties With Rainforest Paper Producer

The Catwalk at COP15: Sustainable Fashion Design Competition in Copenhagen (Video)

Nike Considered’s Lorrie Vogel at Opportunity Green on Creating a Sustainable Design Ethos (Video)

University  of Delaware, UDaily

Fashion and Apparel Studies instructor promoting sustainability worldwide

Sri Threads

The Art of Shifu: Hiroko Karuno’s Original Interpretation of Traditional Woven Paper

Social Alterations has been in the news over the past few weeks for our upcoming interview with Noko Jeans (stay tuned!), and for Fashioning the Future:

Caution: Shameful Self Promotion Ahead!

CSR Asia

Your jeans are from North Korea

Ex-CSR Asia intern wins Sustainable Fashion Industry Award

Treehugger

London College of Fashion Draws Designs for the Future

Arts Thread

Fashioning the Future 2009 Awards, London

Glass Magazine

Fashioning the Future 2009

Roundup//Holiday Gift Guides

"this year's tree", by ATLITW (via Materials for a time machine)There are so many amazing holiday gift guides out this year—we thought we would offer you a roundup of our favorites.

Inhabitat’s “Green Holiday Gift Guide” is wonderful gift guide. Our favourite features are Heirloom and Gifts of Time.

Core77 has compiled their annual gift guide, “77 Righteous Gifts Under $77”. Needless to say, it’s righteous.

Treehugger wants you to have a Slow Holiday this year. They have put together another fantastic gift guide, and even resurrected their 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 guides, so you will have PLENTY to choose from!

Ecofabulous has done a great job putting together Eco Gift Guides:

For the Couch Potato // For the Man About Town //For the Style Maven // For Tiny Tots // For the Rockstar

They have also rounded up their picks for best online shops this season, here.

Also, in Canada, be sure to check out Shop Sustainable (Toronto) and Body Politic (Vancouver)

Searching through Core77’s Righteous Gift Guide, you’ll find Design Revolution: 100 products that Empower People, by Emily Pilloton (forward by Allan Chochinov), and Nathan Shedroff’s book, Design is the Problem: The future of Design Must be Sustainable. These books are a must have for the designers, design enthusiasts, and/or the activists in your life. For more book ideas, check out the SA recommended reading section of the site, here.

You can also “Regift The Fruitcake” in support of Project H and help them meet their fundraising goal of $10,000 this month for their Design for Education Initiatives!

Happy Spending!

Copenhagen climate change conference: ‘Fourteen days to seal history’s judgment on this generation’

The-Economic-Observer-Bei-002

This editorial calling for action from world leaders on climate change is published today by 56 newspapers around the world in 20 languages

Copenhagen climate change summit – opening day liveblog

Editorial-logo-001

Today 56 newspapers in 45 countries take the unprecedented step of speaking with one voice through a common editorial. We do so because humanity faces a profound emergency.

Unless we combine to take decisive action, climate change will ravage our planet, and with it our prosperity and security. The dangers have been becoming apparent for a generation. Now the facts have started to speak: 11 of the past 14 years have been the warmest on record, the Arctic ice-cap is melting and last year’s inflamed oil and food prices provide a foretaste of future havoc. In scientific journals the question is no longer whether humans are to blame, but how little time we have got left to limit the damage. Yet so far the world’s response has been feeble and half-hearted.

Climate change has been caused over centuries, has consequences that will endure for all time and our prospects of taming it will be determined in the next 14 days. We call on the representatives of the 192 countries gathered in Copenhagen not to hesitate, not to fall into dispute, not to blame each other but to seize opportunity from the greatest modern failure of politics. This should not be a fight between the rich world and the poor world, or between east and west. Climate change affects everyone, and must be solved by everyone.

The science is complex but the facts are clear. The world needs to take steps to limit temperature rises to 2C, an aim that will require global emissions to peak and begin falling within the next 5-10 years. A bigger rise of 3-4C — the smallest increase we can prudently expect to follow inaction — would parch continents, turning farmland into desert. Half of all species could become extinct, untold millions of people would be displaced, whole nations drowned by the sea. The controversy over emails by British researchers that suggest they tried to suppress inconvenient data has muddied the waters but failed to dent the mass of evidence on which these predictions are based.

Few believe that Copenhagen can any longer produce a fully polished treaty; real progress towards one could only begin with the arrival of President Obama in the White House and the reversal of years of US obstructionism. Even now the world finds itself at the mercy of American domestic politics, for the president cannot fully commit to the action required until the US Congress has done so.

But the politicians in Copenhagen can and must agree the essential elements of a fair and effective deal and, crucially, a firm timetable for turning it into a treaty. Next June’s UN climate meeting in Bonn should be their deadline. As one negotiator put it: “We can go into extra time but we can’t afford a replay.”

At the deal’s heart must be a settlement between the rich world and the developing world covering how the burden of fighting climate change will be divided — and how we will share a newly precious resource: the trillion or so tonnes of carbon that we can emit before the mercury rises to dangerous levels.

Rich nations like to point to the arithmetic truth that there can be no solution until developing giants such as China take more radical steps than they have so far. But the rich world is responsible for most of the accumulated carbon in the atmosphere – three-quarters of all carbon dioxide emitted since 1850. It must now take a lead, and every developed country must commit to deep cuts which will reduce their emissions within a decade to very substantially less than their 1990 level.

Developing countries can point out they did not cause the bulk of the problem, and also that the poorest regions of the world will be hardest hit. But they will increasingly contribute to warming, and must thus pledge meaningful and quantifiable action of their own. Though both fell short of what some had hoped for, the recent commitments to emissions targets by the world’s biggest polluters, the United States and China, were important steps in the right direction.

Social justice demands that the industrialised world digs deep into its pockets and pledges cash to help poorer countries adapt to climate change, and clean technologies to enable them to grow economically without growing their emissions. The architecture of a future treaty must also be pinned down – with rigorous multilateral monitoring, fair rewards for protecting forests, and the credible assessment of “exported emissions” so that the burden can eventually be more equitably shared between those who produce polluting products and those who consume them. And fairness requires that the burden placed on individual developed countries should take into account their ability to bear it; for instance newer EU members, often much poorer than “old Europe”, must not suffer more than their richer partners.

The transformation will be costly, but many times less than the bill for bailing out global finance — and far less costly than the consequences of doing nothing.

Many of us, particularly in the developed world, will have to change our lifestyles. The era of flights that cost less than the taxi ride to the airport is drawing to a close. We will have to shop, eat and travel more intelligently. We will have to pay more for our energy, and use less of it.

But the shift to a low-carbon society holds out the prospect of more opportunity than sacrifice. Already some countries have recognized that embracing the transformation can bring growth, jobs and better quality lives. The flow of capital tells its own story: last year for the first time more was invested in renewable forms of energy than producing electricity from fossil fuels.

Kicking our carbon habit within a few short decades will require a feat of engineering and innovation to match anything in our history. But whereas putting a man on the moon or splitting the atom were born of conflict and competition, the coming carbon race must be driven by a collaborative effort to achieve collective salvation.

Overcoming climate change will take a triumph of optimism over pessimism, of vision over short-sightedness, of what Abraham Lincoln called “the better angels of our nature”.

It is in that spirit that 56 newspapers from around the world have united behind this editorial. If we, with such different national and political perspectives, can agree on what must be done then surely our leaders can too.

The politicians in Copenhagen have the power to shape history’s judgment on this generation: one that saw a challenge and rose to it, or one so stupid that we saw calamity coming but did nothing to avert it. We implore them to make the right choice.

This editorial will be published tomorrow by 56 newspapers around the world in 20 languages including Chinese, Arabic and Russian. The text was drafted by a Guardian team during more than a month of consultations with editors from more than 20 of the papers involved. Like the Guardian most of the newspapers have taken the unusual step of featuring the editorial on their front page.

This editorial is free to reproduce under Creative Commons


‘Fourteen days to seal history’s judgment on this generation’ by The Guardian is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-No Derivative Works 2.0 UK: England & Wales License.
Based on a work at guardian.co.uk.
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2009/sep/02/guardian-environment-team
(please note this Creative Commons license is valid until 18 December 2009)