Category Archives: Responsibility

Call For Entires // CapilanoU Textile Arts Students & Alumni

Friends,
As you know, SA’s Founder, Mary, is a Capilano University alumna with a Diploma in Textile Arts. It was through her education at the Textile Arts Department that she developed a keen interest in responsible fashion. This Diploma is a rare and unique program in the Canadian higher education landscape that has been in existence for 40 years, however, in April 2013, the Textile Arts Department was unceremoniously informed that, along with other arts programs at Cap, the program will be cut due to a budget shortfall. This decision was made without consultation with the students nor the faculty and without any transparency as to the decision process at this public university.
    

Community action against the cuts and the politics they represent was swift and effective as Capilano University’s Board of Governors rejected the proposed budget and requested that the University administration propose a new one that does not require any program cuts. Consequently, the Senate Budget Advisory Committee went to work on a new proposal. This op-ed outlines some of their findings and alternative ideas:

Capilano University has the same number of faculty members it did in 2009, but serves more than 1000 additional full-time equivalent students. However, the efficiency gains made by faculty have been consumed by the institution’s operating, administrative, and IT costs, which have all expanded by over 40 percent in just four years.

To pay for themselves, administrators want to cut seven percent of the university’s programs to shave one percent off the bottom line. To protect their bloated bureaucracy, they want to eliminate unique and acclaimed programs, reduce opportunities for students, and shrink the university’s revenues.

Our alternative? Continue to nurture Cap’s diverse and accessible program mix by pursuing modest reductions to administrative overhead and expenses, with a return to pre-2012 spending levels. This would cover the current shortfall and allow us the time we need to find longer-term solutions.

Are these radical suggestions? We think not. In fact, the B.C. Universities Act gives faculty broad management power—for example, as stated in Part 8, paragraph 40: “subject to this Act and to the approval of the senate”, faculty may “make rules for the government, direction, and management of the faculty and its affairs and business.”

Unfortunately, despite the flurry of community activism against these cuts and despite proposing an alternative no-cuts budget, the Capilano University Textile Arts Department posted the following update on their Fb page:

On June 11, 2013, the Board of Governors of Capilano University voted (11:2, one abstain and one spoiled ballot) to accept without amendments the Budget put forward by the President which included the course cuts and program intake suspensions that were a part of the original, contested budget of May 14.

Many people believe that this budget and the process that led up to it is in violation of the University Act. In the words of the Capilano Faculty Executive “This is now political”. There is lots to do.

The cuts for the Fall semester of 2013 are now inevitable, but the future is still unfolding.

~~~~~~

That future is still unfolding with ongoing protests against the cuts, letter writing campaigns to MPs, MLAs and the Premier, and strong community organizing activities. So, it is in solidarity that Social Alterations is posting both this update and this call for entries from the Capilano University Textile Arts Department asking students and alumni to submit images for an upcoming exhibit.

The Educational Issues Committee is organizing a show of the Programs. The installation is meant to highlight and display how wonderful the program are, and demonstrate the extent of what the institution and students are losing by cutting these programs! We are looking for images that highlight the skills students develop in the programs, and the amazing work which is created. The photos are going to be blown up, (we will be adjusting the DPI) and printed to around 3ft by 4ft, photos will be hung in an installation within the CSU buildings, there will also be a series of smaller photographs displayed. If anyone has great photographs or images of projects that they feel represent the program, and would like to share them with us for the display. 

We are also looking for a caption for each program to go with the photos. Something that not only highlights the amazing knowledge and skills that students develop through the program, but states what the community and students will be losing if these programs disappear.

Please send to : jokeeffealmo@gmail.com

This struggle is yet another example of the undervaluation and devaluation of the arts in education. There is a serious deficit in our values when we begin to dismiss the importance of a robust and creative environment that nurtures and supports open and diverse artistic and cultural expression. This devaluation is a process that reflects the shift in power relations at universities to a top-down corporate model of governance that ignores community concerns including those of the students who pay tuition and the educators who work hard to improve their institution’s reputation and competitiveness. It’s time for a reevaluation of priorities.

In solidarity,

Social Alterations

For more on the struggle against these cuts and how you can help even if you’re not Cap students or alumni:

Capilano University Textile Arts Department

Studio Art and Textile Art Eviction from Capilano University

 

ATTEND, WATCH, READ // Stitched Up – The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion, by Tansy E. Hoskins

Cover no border

There is a lot of online buzz surrounding a new book on the fashion industry – Stitched Up – The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion, by Tansy E. Hoskins.

An event to launch the book is being held tomorrow in London, with a panel discussion featuring a host of special guests: fashion designer Katharine Hamnett, Susie Orbach, (Psychotherapist, activist, author of ‘Fat Is A Feminist Issue’ and ‘Bodies’. Founder of Anybody), Dunja Knezevic (President of The Models Union), Leah Borromeo (Journalist and Director of ‘Dirty White Gold’), and Nadia Idle (Love Fashion, Hate Sweatshops – War on Want)…click here for all the details, and here to join the event – held tomorrow (Thursday, February 13th) from 7:00pm until 10:30pm at 16-18 Heneage Street, London, UK.

At the event, Dirty White Gold will be screening a 10 minute teaser on their upcoming film.

About the book //

Moving between Karl Lagerfeld and Karl Marx, Stitched Up delves into the alluring world of fashion, exploring consumerism, class, and garment factories to reveal the real beneficiaries of exploitation.

Stitched Up dissects fashion’s vampiric relationship with the planet and with our bodies to uncover what makes it so damaging. Why does ‘size zero’ exist? Is fashion racist? Why do ‘we’ consume so much?

In a compelling conclusion Stitched Up explores the use of clothing to resist. Can you shock an industry that loves to shock? Is ‘green fashion’ an alternative? What would a real fashion revolution look like?

Click here for details on requesting a review copy of the book.

Dear Google Images…Thanks!

Garment Workers

Google has adjusted their image search tools with a new “Usage Rights” filtering option. This means users can more easily search for images for both use and reuse, under such licenses as the Creative Commons (CC).

All SA content is fully CC licensed, and while finding CC licensed images before Google made this small change was manageable, I have already noticed a significant drop in time spent looking for that perfect CC licensed photo for reuse in projects.

This is such great news for educators and creators looking to remix content!

Happy searching, making and sharing, friends!

 

Learned via Lessig Blog, v2

Test your knowledge! And track fast fashion with this interactive Africa study map

How well do you know your geography when it comes to Africa? Unfortunately, many of us need to study up.

This online tool could be a great addition to learning activities on fast fashion supply chains – specifically on second-hand trade.

Add this tool to:

via Africa is a Country

Africa Study Map

Call for Papers // Fashion in Fiction 2014, Hong Kong

I recently ran into Dr. Anne Peirson-Smith at an event and she mentioned that City University of Hong Kong (which happens to be where I’m completing my PhD) is hosting the Fashion in Fiction 2014 conference with the theme Style Stories and Transglobal Narratives. The conference will take place at CityU in Hong Kong from June 12-14, 2014 hosted by the Department of English and the Run Run Shaw Creative Media Centre.

The conference organizers encourage cross-disciplinary research to address various themes described in the call for papers as such:

“This conference will focus on the material and non-material forms of fashion for a range of professional, commercial, historical, social, cultural and creative purposes. The conference will be international and cross-cultural in order to highlight the largely transglobal, transcultural multiple flows of fashion discourse and to broaden the analysis of fashion beyond a purely traditional Western frame of analysis.”

Possible paper topics include:

• Fashion and/in novels, plays, diaries, short stories
• Fashion and/in films and television programs
• Fashion archives
• Fashion illustration
• Fashion discourse
• Fashion and social media
• Fashion travel
• Fashion and popular culture
• Fashion and cultural hybridity
• Fashion and politics
• Fashion and gender

Click below to see the very detailed call for papers.

Submitted conference papers will be blind peer-reviewed and conference organizers aim to publish accepted submissions either as a journal article or as a book chapter.

Abstract Deadline: February 1, 2014.

Acceptance Notification: February 14, 2014.

More Details: Fashion in Fiction: Style Stories and Transglobal Narratives Call For Papers

Call for Papers // Fashion, Style & Popular Culture

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture seeks academic articles for a Special Issue entitled Latin American / Latino Fashion, Style and Popular Culture.

About the journal: 

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture is concerned with style, fashion, clothing, design, and related trends, as well as appearances and consumption as they relate to popular culture. Scholarship using and/or including: historical, manufacturing, aesthetics, marketing, branding, merchandising, retailing, psychological/ sociological aspects of dress, body image, and cultural identities, in addition to any areas topics such as purchasing, shopping, and the ways in which consumers construct identities are welcome.

Papers from all research methods and disciplines are welcome! Innovative and new popular culture research, scholarship and creative works in the areas of fashion, design, style, the body and consumerism are encouraged!”

Click below for full details in both English and Spanish on the main themes, possible topics and other relevant information:

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Special Issue: Latin American / Latino Fashion, Style & Popular Culture

Revista de Moda, Estilo y Cultura Popular Edición Especial: Moda, estilo y Cultura Popular en América Latina / Latinos en el exterior

Deadline for submission: February 1st, 2014; act fast!

Update // Cambodian garment workers battle for wage hike

A worker’s sign demanding $160/month minimum wages | Image taken at a rally by Mu Sochua, a Cambodian opposition party MP [click the photo to go to her blog].

Last week, Mary reported on the violent protests in Cambodia which included garment workers who have been demonstrating against a proposed minimum wage increase to US$100/month. The workers have asked for US$160/month which still falls short of the living wage proposed by the Asia Floor Wage Alliance [see the report entitled Latest Asia Floor Wage figure in Local Country Currencies (2012)] of KHR 1178814.60/month which is equivalent to something between US$283-294/month, depending on the exchange rate.

It is important to add that these demonstrations are not limited to wage issues. As I wrote on January 4th on the SA facebook page:

“Keep in mind that this is not just about wages but also stems from a complicated alliance between the numerous unions & the opposition party to challenge Hun Sen’s 28-year rule. This is part of an ongoing movement kickstarted by the July 2013 election which the opposition believes was rigged. They have since boycotted parliament, calling for new elections in daily rallies in Phnom Penh. And in the middle of all this politics is the fashion supply chain.

For a bit more on the background to these protests, listen to the following conversation from the CBC’s As it happens (Jan. 3rd):


Here are some updates specific to the garment industry angle of this story:

  • The protests continued over the week culminating in 5 deaths and around 40 injuries when authorities opened fire. Meanwhile, the Garment Manufacturers Association of Cambodia (GMAC) estimates sales losses of US$200 million and project a 30 per cent drop in orders in 2014 due to the protests. GMAC, in a press conference, condoned the military police’s reaction to protesters, and blamed striking workers for all deaths which were described as “collateral damage”.
  • Today’s news reports (see also here) confirm that the protests are suspended (for now) as unions advised workers to go back to work. Union leaders plan a meeting to regroup and rethink their protest strategy.
  • Sithi.org uploaded an open letter from some brands to Prime Minister Hun Sen, the Cabinet of the Prime Minister, the Council of the Ministers, the Chairman of GMAC and union leaders calling for a peaceful resolution of this conflict and expressing deep concern over the violence writing further that “[o]ur primary concerns are for the security and safety of the workers employed by our suppliers and the long-term stability of the Cambodian garment industry.” The brands added “[w]e believe that the only way to resolve this dispute is to cease all forms of violence, and for stakeholders to enter into good faith negotiations, allowing workers to safely return to work without fear of repercussions as soon as possible.” Kudos to the signatory brands: H&M, Gap Inc., Inditex, Adidas Group, Puma, Levi Strauss & Co., and Columbia.
  • Finally, to add an international political economy dimension to these protests, there is a report (see also here) that details the South Korean embassy’s involvement in back channel dealings pressing the Cambodian government to protect Korean interests. South Korea was the largest investor in Cambodia in 2012.

This story is ongoing and we’ll do our best to continue the updates on a regular basis. In the meantime, keep up with events over our Fb page and our twitter feed.

READ // Last Nightshift in Savar by Doug Miller

Doug Miller - Book Cover

The polls have now closed on Bangladesh’s 10th parliamentary election. The election is contested (see debates) with opposition parties having boycotted the vote as a result of the current government refusing to step down and make room for a caretaker government to temporarily manage the country for the run-up to, and during, the election — an electoral process typically followed in Bangladesh. The head of the leading opposition party, the BNP, is reported to be under unofficial house arrest, and violence over political clashes has intensified (a reported 200 people have been killed since the end of October). Reports that the political instability has hit the country’s ready-made garment sector have already emerged (see also here). How will today’s results further impact the industry? Any investigations will require some historical analysis.

You may recall the #BangladeshProject SA ran in 2010, resulting in this letter. We built the campaign because we felt strongly workers were not receiving enough media attention as they fought for an increase in their minimum wage. Since the tragedy at Rana Plaza, the plight of the Bangladeshi garment worker has received mass international coverage. We’re hoping it continues, but not just for these workers, for all garment workers world-wide.

In December, a plan to provide Rana Plaza victims and the families of victims with financial compensation was announced. The plan is chaired by the International Labour Organization (ILO), and so far the arrangement has been signed by four brands, and eight stakeholder organizations: the Bonmarché, El Corte Ingles, Loblaw, and Primark and the Ministry of Labour and Employment (Bangladesh), the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers’ Association (BGMEA), the Bangladesh Employers Federation (BEF), IndustriALL Bangladesh Council (IBC), the National Coordination Committee for Workers’ Education (NCCWE), Bangladesh Institute of Labour Studies (BILS), IndustriALL Global Union, and the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC).

You may now be wondering how it could have taken these stakeholders eight months to announce a compensation plan. For context on just how complicated the aftermath of such an industrial disaster can be, check out Doug Miller’s (2012) book Last Nightshift in Savar, which tells the story of Bangladesh’s Spectrum Sweater Factory Collapse (April, 2005). Miller gave a talk on the story and the book back in September 2012 – click on the audio below to listen, and here for the slides.

Doug Miller Audio

I have now added it to our required reading list, and suggest you put it on yours for 2014!

As for the impact of Bangladesh’s current political turmoil on the industry? We’ll have to wait and see.

Cambodian garment workers battle for wage hike

Fast Facts Cambodia

In 2013, Cambodia saw months of garment worker protests calling for an increase in the monthly minimum wage. Over the past two weeks, however, the country has seen garment worker demonstrations intensify with support from the opposition, the Cambodian National Rescue Party (CNRP). Many garment workers are reportedly backing the opposition under a promise that workers would see an increase in minimum wages. Through support from the opposition, the country has since witnessed mass street rallies – the likes of which have not been seen since 1998 – with a reported hundreds of thousands of demonstrators taking to streets of Phnom Penh in support of CNRP opposition leader Sam Rainsy. The country has not seen a regime change in nearly 30 years.

Back to the garment workers…

Striking workers are demanding their monthly minimum wage double from $80.00 to $160.00. On Dec. 24th Cambodia’s Labour Advisory Committee proposed a $95.00 minimum wage, prompting a joint strike action from at least the following six unions (despite threats of legal action from the government):

  • Coalition of Cambodian Apparel Workers’ Democratic Union (C.CAWDU)
  • Free Trade Union (FTU)
  • National Independent Federation Textile Union of Cambodia (NIFTUC)
  • Collective Union of Movement of Workers (CUMW)
  • Cambodian Alliance of Trade Unions
  • Cambodian Confederation of Unions (CCU)

Although the new $95.00 monthly wage proposed was up $15.00 from last year’s $80.00 monthly wage, it falls $65.00 short of the $160.00 monthly wage sought by workers and unions.

Despite the government announcing on Dec. 31st that it is willing to increase the proposed monthly minimum by an additional $5.00, bringing it from $80.00 to $100.00, the unions have continued the nationwide strike action.

While there had been previous reports of violence (see also here), demonstrations today (Jan. 2) saw police in riot gear, armed with rifles, use force to break up the protests. Garment worker living wage activist organization, Asia Floor Wage, has announced via Facebook the unions will not back down, jointly agreeing to continue further strike action.

Striking garment workers are now faced with a difficult decision: stay and fight in support of their unions, or get back to work. An extended strike means lost wages for these workers; however, under the current pay structure, it’s becoming increasingly difficult for them to survive. It hardly seems like much of a “choice” at all.

Sithi.org has a geographical breakdown of the Cambodian garment sector with a partial list of brands and their suppliers producing within the country. Click here for the details, and to see the methodology used to gather the data.

Some further reading on Cambodia from SA //

For a background overview on the country’s apparel sector, click here.

Happy 2014, friends!

Happy New Year 2014

2013 saw garment workers and the social, cultural, political and environmental impacts of fast fashion supply chains gain increased media attention in light of such industrial tragedies as Rana Plaza.

Here’s hoping 2014 can keep up the momentum, without help from another disaster.

As we look back on the year and reflect, we thought to share our own top lessons and stories.

Top three lessons //

  1. [Lesson 4] Corporate Social Responsibility
  2. SAGE: The Social Alterations Google Earth Module
  3. Mitumba: Mapping the Journey, by Maughan Pearce [Higher Learning Activity]

Top three posts //

  1. Sneaky Business // Oxfam Australia organizes virtual protest to support the rights of footwear workers
  2. A closer look into Gap Inc.’s new Clean Water Program
  3. Resources // NPR’s Planet Money Makes a ‘Simple’ T-shirt

We’re pretty excited for 2014, and are looking forward to learning with you.

In Solidarity, from Edinburgh and Hong Kong,

Mary and Nadira